Valentin Zusslin - Alsace, France
(Jean-Paul and Marie Zusslin, bother and sister)
VALENTIN ZUSSLIN WINES WITH ROOTS
No one ever said being a 13th generation winegrower automatically makes you an expert, but it can certainly improve your odds. Marie Zusslin and her brother, Jean-Paul, began working alongside their father, Jean-Marie, and grandfather, Valentin, in 2000. For ten years the three generations worked together in the same house/winery established by their ancestors in 1671. Today, Marie and Jean-Paul share the lead responsibilities in the cellar and the vineyard following the holistic approach established by their father, whom began practicing biodynamic farming in 1997.
We met Marie Zusslin on an unseasonably, unreasonably hot summer day for the first time in her family's historic Orschwihr Domaine. After many years of falling just shy of making a connection, and then receiving our first shipment of the wines, it was a great way to solidify our feelings about the wines and the work the brother/sister/father/grandfather team has done/is doing.
Marie was in the office when we arrived, and shortly thereafter, Jean-Paul walked through the entryway with a gaggle of children and balloons. It was his son's birthday and there was a celebration, but first Jean-Paul would need to meet with a visitor. Not us, but a much more serious and intense French wine journalist. A beautifully painted family tree hung on the wall of the tasting room where Marie led us through a tasting of the wines, and sometimes our conversation crossed paths with Jean-Paul and the critic. He seemed as impressed as we were, and we all contemplated the family lineage together. All that history in the very spot where we stood admiring the symbolism of the painting on the wall was hard to fathom, but the Zusslin siblings felt natural in their roles as tall branches on a tree with deep roots.
After tasting several wines and not finding a single one we didn't love, Marie led us through the production end of the winery and asked if we'd like to come with her to check on the horses. It was HOT, too hot to be a horse pulling a plow or a person guiding a horse through dry dirt, rocks and terraced vines. She explained the importance of biodiversity in their vineyards – for the health of the vines, the vineyards, the region, the world. They plant cover crops that encourage good insects and microbial life for the soil, bees to pollinate the beneficial plants, trees to attract the birds that eat the harmful bugs, and on and on. As Marie explained their way – which was something far beyond a philosophy – the tree on the wall bearing names of 13 generations of Zusslin winegrowers took on a greater meaning, representing not only history, but the circle of life.
Experts or not, this pair has made their way. 13 generations of feet between the vines and hands in the dirt live through Marie and Jean-Paul. They say trees have memory, and with this, we simply can't argue.
Classic in the best sense, the wines of Zusslin are completely unadulterated, and they couldn't be more clean, pure and expressive.
DOMAINE VALENTIN ZUSSLIN:
THE CREAM RISES TO THE TOP
The best wines of Alsace are glorious, terroir-driven, unique and delicious. Yet Alsatian wine gets lost in the shuffle of the press or new latest flavors. Sadly, several of the greatest producers - via troubling distribution - present wines disproportionately priced for value.
Knowing Alsace's amazing variety beyond Riesling, via our "almost direct imports" work, E&R happily works with four diverse producers in Alsace. From Domaine Zusslin and Etienne Loew, to Jerome Mader and the fine Cru wines from Domaine Deiss, satisfaction and value are high.
Domaine Valentin Zusslin, with roots stretching back five hundred years in time and many feet deep in their stellar terroir, has quickly risen to the top of the Alsatian hierarchy. As we tasted the whole line-up at the winery recently, we selected these five new arrivals ourselves. Especially note their remarkable Pinot d'Alsace Auxerrois: it is here for the first time. Totally organic for twenty years, the Domaine achieves quality in each wine produced.
It was rewarding seeing two of our wineries profiled not long ago in the New York Times (photos & all) in a lengthy article by Eric Asimov. Generous with his praise, here is part of what he wrote:
"The Zusslin wines reflect precision. They are characterized by acidity, energy and a savory quality that I can only describe as saltiness. From the Clos Liebenberg, a southeast-facing vineyard outside Orschwihr in the southern part of the region, you can see the Swiss Alps on a clear day. Riesling is planted in rows and on terraces. Beehives are nearby for honey and pear trees for making eau de vie. Like all of the Zusslin estate, it has been farmed biodynamically for almost 20 years. Each element of the undulating terrain is different, with varying microclimates, exposures and soils."
When in stock, wines from this producer appear below. Click on each wine for more detail.