Domaine Sylvain Pataille | Marsannay | Burgundy
Fun fact about the lavender label–
a plum label in 1999 inspired Sylvain to select this now iconic color for his labeling. He was set on this color but no one else cared for it. At one point he wanted to change his labels but it was Becky Wasserman that said, no! You have to keep it.
In late January, Burgundian winegrowers are bundled up with clippers in hand as they reset their parcels for a new vintage. In the wine shop, with box cutters in hand, we unwrap new releases from Burgundy. A whole year in one bottle, one always stands out. Stamped with a pale purple, amethyst faded label, Sylvain Pataille’s single parcels of aligote have stirred up excitement for Burgundy’s other white grape.
Walking through Pataille’s vineyard, many things will stick with you. Maybe it’s his brother who looks just like him with his wild curly golden crunch hair. Maybe it’s the dense reddish iron-rich soil that clumps to your boots making you a little bit taller. Maybe it’s all the vineyard dogs running through aligote vines that are over 90 years old. In Marsannay, the soil diversity has shifted Pataille’s production to more white wine than red. With a drive to make more whites than red, don’t let it shy you away from his pinots. Linear and very focused, Sylvain rides the salty waves of freshness.
Bourgogne Aligoté 2021
A good introduction to Pataille’s love for this grape. Vines on average are around fifty years old! The terroir is a beautiful mix of limestone, gravel, clay, marl soil with small stones. Aged for 12 months in one of his cellars scarred around Marsannay. Zippin’ fresh. $37.50
Bourgogne Aligoté “La Charme Aux Pretres” 2021
Charme is a term used in Burgundy to designate a rocky place. Pretres means priest, which gives a clue that this was most likely an area that belonged to the church. Jasper Morris writes “the top cuvée here is the Charme aux Pretres, a terroir which Sylvain thinks is much more suited to white than red and which has nothing in common with the style of most ‘Charmes’ vineyards throughout Burgundy”. $99.00
Bourgogne Aligoté Les Auvonnes Au Pépé 2021
Pépé is a tribute to Sylvain’s grandfather who owned this vineyard. Very limited quantities of this wine makes it to Oregon (total production is 25 cases). Sylvain notes the characteristic reductive minerality despite the change in location, grape, and bedrock. He believes this minerality is so beautiful that it would be a shame to make red wine on this terroir. $79.50
Le Chapitre Marsannay Blanc 2020
The Marsannay village appellation was created late, it wasn’t until 1987 and Le Chapitre was left out! It is now recognized as one of the greatest vineyards in the area. The INAO (French National Institute of Origin and Quality) changed the classification from regional to village level in 2019. The truth is in the bottle! $62.50
Aligote was planted here in 1960 and by 1970, the whole vineyard was dedicated to the grape. Bouzeron sits farther than Sylvain’s other vineyards, it’s the white soils that make this wine stand out in his line of aligote. Focused palate with a rich nose. Dive into why Sylvain is crazy about this grape. $75.00
Sylvain loves dogs. While tasting this chardonnay in one of his cellars in town, his dogs join at your feet as they rest for a moment before it's back to work in the vineyards.. In between him speaking French (fast!) he looks at us Americans and says “this one is like a nice dog”. A blend of five different Marsannay parcels including Clos Du Roy. Gentle pressing makes this a pleasant wine. $66.00
Marsannay Rouge 2021
Fingerprint of pinot noir in Marsannay. Fresh, complex, and lovely. $58.50
Le Chapitre Marsannay Rouge 2021"
WK notes 92+ pts: “Now included within the appellation of Marsannay, the 2021 Marsannay Le Chapitre exhibits aromas of cherries, wild berries, cinnamon, orange zest and peonies. Medium to full-bodied, ample and layered, it's concentrated and serious, with lively acids and a long, saline finish. Even in the giving 2021 vintage, this bottling will merit a bit of patience.” $100.50
Clos Du Roy Marsannay Rouge 2021
Located in Chenôve, this vineyard was originally called “Le Clos Des Ducs” as it was in the possession of the Duke of Burgundy! It was renamed Clos Du Roy (King’s vineyard!) in 1477 after the Duke’s defeat. Sylvains’s 2.25 hectares of pinot noir were first planted in 1952 on the Oligocene limestone that vibes below the red and sand top soil that is rich in iron. 100% whole cluster pressing, ambient yeast, and minimal sulfur only added at bottling. The king and Duke would have both enjoyed this wine. $100.50
L’Ancestrale Rouge 2020
The name of this vineyard comes from the friends who gave it to him. Light pink gravelly soil sits on top of white oolite. Less than a hectare of pinot noir of super old and new vines are unhedged, dense, and concentrated. Sylvain is the first in his family to start making wine again after many generations of not. He told us in his cellar that “good wines you make are the ones when you give thanks to your family that came before. You are the passer, always passing down”. Aged for a long time barrel, the power and history are elevated beautifully. $192.00