Larmandier-Bernier - Côte De Blancs, Champagne

Larmandier-Bernier is one of the vanguard growers that has helped pave the organic (specifically biodynamic) way in the otherwise highly industrial region of Champagne. Without being radical, Pierre and Sophie Larmandier are outspoken devotees to the concept of terroir supported by the implementation of organic principles. They have exceptional plots of land which lie in the Grand Cru villlages of Cramant, Chouilly, Avize and Oger, in addition to uniquely distinct parcels in the Premier Cru village of Vertus. In their own words, "it would be a shame if we didn't bring them to your glass". They go on to say, "But the terroir is not enough; it is to wine what the score is to music. What's the point if the grape variety, if the vineplant (the instrument) and the winegrower (the performer) are not up to standard?" Touché. The battle is fought in the vineyard, but the outcome is decided by the winemaker. If the winegrower has done everything right in the vineyard and stops there, there's nothing to show for the work that was done. Larmandier-Bernier does not have this problem, and this is why they are truly one of Champagne's finest and most dedicated domaines from start to finish.

There are wines in nearly every region on earth that have proven that it's not only possible to work organically, but that working this way can lead to better wine. Champagne is as difficult a place as any to farm a vineyard without chemicals. The cool, damp and humid northerly climate is a breeding ground for mold and other diseases which are very difficult to control via natural methods. The chemicals that were introduced to the region (and all over France) post WWII were a godsend for these farmers, and nearly all of them (some 2000) latched onto this "new and improved" way to cut down on labor while ensuring a more "healthy" and full crop. At this point, backing away from the chemical safety net is a huge risk and requires a serious commitment. Indeed, not even 1% have gone down this road, and, as noted above, it doesn't guarantee good wine.

Champagne with fine bubbles and finesse requires something beyond the vineyard: magic in the cellar... which, of course, is not really magic. This combination of organic vineyards and finesseful winemaking has proved successful, even in the damp environs of Champagne. If we were to create a list of the growers in Champagne who we believe are making some of the region's best wine, many of them are working organically or biodynamically or, if not adhering to one philosophy or another, are working their soils and making their wine without chemicals: Anselme Selosse (who inspired many of the names to follow), Vouette et Sorbée, Larmandier-Bernier, Benoit Lahaye, Eric Rodez, Franck Pascal, Ulysse Collin, Jacques Lassaigne, Cédric Bouchard, Marie-Courtin, Demarne-Frison, Pascal Doquet, Agrapart, David Léclapart, Jérôme Prévost, and others such as Chartogne-Taillet, Bérèche and Laherte who are younger generations leading their family domaines down a similar path. Some of these growers have highly prized terroir and others more humble, but each of them are succeeding in eking out their vineyards' full potential in the form of brilliant, sometimes "unconventional" and other times "classic" Champagne.

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