Bethel Heights Vineyard - Eola Hills - Oregon
Bethel Heights
If the heart is pinot, the soul is family.
Founders of Bethel Heights in the middle of their Eola Hills vineyard. Left to right, Terry Casteel, Marilyn Webb, Pat Dudley, Ted Casteel 1989
Standing at the top of Bethel Heights west block of pinot noir I breathe in the dry summer air. The electric green of vibrant vines, tall dark evergreen trees, and the cool blue of the Oregon coast range in the distance is layered in harmony in the Eola-Amity Hills. Once an abandoned walnut grove, the fifty acre property was advertised for sale as “suitable for a vineyard” in 1977. The early days of the Oregon wine industry was buzzing with exploration by curious young professionals that were determined to see how well grapes would grow across the state. With motivation from a class in enology and viticulture from universities like UC Davis, many young families had their eyes on Oregon’s soil, climate, and land opportunities. Uncharted and ready for growth, the abandoned walnut grove also seemed suitable for brothers Ted and Terry Casteel and their partners, Pat Dudley and Marilyn Webb to raise both of their families. The history of Oregon wine is fairly young, compared to France where you can trace family run wineries back to the 14th century. The opportunity to meet the people that planted the first Oregon vineyards is becoming rare, but the next generation is holding on to the stories. Living and working together, the Bethel Heights family made history with their establishment of quintessential viticulture, community contribution, and continued leadership for Oregon’s wine footprint.
left to right— Ted Casteel with the kids in the wagon in the middle of unplanted estate vineyard 1978. Marked posts with planting date. Pat shows off the first harvest of estate vines 1981
Cruising south down I-5 from Portland to Bethel Heights, I pop off the freeway and snake my way through Oregon’s state capitol, Salem. I weave through suburbia faded to farmlands that bleed into vineyards. These vines are in the path of the cooling Aeolian winds that are charged by the Pacific Ocean. A distinctive characteristic of this region and what gave the Eola Hills its name. Powerful and predictable, the marine winds push cool air into the valley every day at sunset, keeping the hanging fruit fresh throughout the hot summer nights. The first thirty-two acres of vines on the estate were planted in 1977-1979. These vines are among very few of the last remaining own-rooted pinot noir and chardonnay in the Willamette Valley. If the heart is pinot, the soul is family. The term family run is as real as it gets at Bethel Heights. Walking into the elegant and welcoming tasting room, I am greeted by the August summer sun through the wall of windows that overlook the sugar snap pea green vineyards. Ben Casteel welcomes me and takes me out to the porch as he points to the distant trees and house beyond the vines where he grew up. As we set out on our vineyard walk, we pass by older vintages of estate wines from the early days. Now in their forty-sixth year, the family estate continues to be united by wine growing and passing it to the next generation. The founders of Bethel Heights left the academic field to build something together. Bottles of Burgundy inspired very small batch winemaking in Terry and Marilyn’s Seattle basement in the 70s. Connected by family, Terry, Ted, Marilyn, and Pat left the city with big intentions. Collectively, they have had incredible influence on the Oregon wine industry. Bethel Heights has contributed their knowledge and organizing to the LIVE certified non-profit, International Pinot Noir Celebration, Pinot Camp, Willamette Valley Wineries Association, and Chemeketa Community College viticulture program. Impressive family tree continues to grow as the family supports their second generation wine growers.
Casteel kids— Jon, Ben, Jessie, Robert, and Mimi, 1989. The parents— Marilyn, Terry, Pat, Ted, 1988.
Ben and I cascade down to the cool cement cellar to apply some sunscreen before we head out on a vineyard walk. Looking down the long rows of gnarly tall vines, a freshness of wonder hits me as I listen to Ben talk about the early plantings. These vines are old and about as tall as me! I am always curious when I see older plantings in Oregon, how did they know where to plant? Wizard of the valley Myron Reford gave the family a call. The Oregon wine industry was literally built by a small community of wine growers, just figuring it out. Clever and optimistic, the outcome is within sight as I gaze at the twisted and thick vines. No till, intensive canopy, and ecological balance, each row proudly lets you know how old it is with four rusty nails holding up a white sign of its planting date. As we approach the first family home on the property, I can barely see the front porch. Covered with lush natural greenery, gigantic lavender, cherry candied colored flowers, surrounded by trees, this cozy home is where Mimi Casteel grew up. Botanist, ecologist, owner of Hope Well Wine, and Ben’s cousin, these two remain tied to the land their parents cultivated, growing and making wine under the same roof today.
Left to right- Mimi Casteel’s childhood home. Ben showing off the old tall vines. The estate vines in August.
Similar to his parents, Ben did not set out to be a winemaker. Majoring in English Literature, he wanted to become a professor. A trip to Burgundy to work harvest changed everything for him. Imbedded into the wine culture, France taught him that wine is much more than his parents “job”. His vision shifted for his future when he returned to Oregon to work with Lynn Penner-Ash at Rex Hill, one of the first woman winemakers in the region. Ben was in the right place at the right time in his journey when his father was looking for someone to take over as winemaker when he was diagnosed with Parkinsons. The decision to return to the nest was celebrated by the family as they continued to make decisions together holistically. Most recently, the family estate has acquired the Lewman vineyard, home to 1992 plantings of pinot noir vines. Next door neighbors and friends of the family, this prestigious vineyard was written into the will that it should go to Bethel Heights.
Passing the pond under the tall trees giving us a break from the sun, we arrive at the top of the steep slope of pinot noir. Separated by the tree line, Temperance Hill vineyard sits just beyond this top block. Ben has seen this block grow up. His eyes stretch across the valley below as I stand with my toes sloped forward on the dusty clay soil protected by the land on the eastside of the hill. Retaining acidity in wine is not a problem here. A message from the land that chardonnay likes it here too. Our shoes crunch on the volcanic soils as we head back to the winery as I hear a 4-wheeler approaching. Ted Casteel sits on top of the ATV with his hat low to cover his face from the gold sun. A few detailed words are exchanged with Ben about the upcoming harvest before he scoots off to continue his surveying the depths of the vineyard. The final block Ben walks me through is the small parcel that is dedicated to the harvest interns. Each year the interns have an opportunity to make their own wine in any style they want. At the core of Bethel Heights is their commitment to empowering the next generation for a sustainable future for the Oregon wine community and our environment.
Written by Ocean Yap-Powell
Read about available wines below!
All wines are certified organically grown / dry farmed
Panna cotta, honeysuckle, and the compression of 2021’s generosity hit the palate with a smile. Vibrancy and freshness reminds you that this is chardonnay territory too.
The everything pinot. Half of the fruit in this estate blend comes from what was planted here in the very beginning. The heat dome we had in 2021 turned out to be good for the vines leaving the grapes refreshed and transparent. A good place to start.
Lewman Vineyard Pinot Noir 2021
Prestigious vineyard and a rare offering from Bethel Heights. Planted in 1992, this vineyard was Dennis Lewman’s wish that it goes to the Casteel family. Shallow volcanic basalt soils add to the aromatic building blocks of this wine. Feel it unfold in your glass with fresh herbs and nuance.
“It has a mind-boggling flavor-to-weight ratio, tremendous detail and length and is a great candidate for extended cellaring. Gorgeous!”
(98+ from wine advocate)
Justice Vineyard Pinot Noir 2021
Ted Casteel was crucial to the development of the LIVE (Low Impact Viticulture) certification. In 1999 the family purchased this 40 acre lot adjacent to their winery, giving Ted the opportunity to plant Justice with all the knowledge and resources he had discovered over the 20 years of farming the estate blocks. Underlying sea level floor is exposed to the surface throughout the vineyard. Volcanic clay soil to sandy soil shakes up this block surprising the family every year. My notes read: “It’s really good- more to say in years to come”
“The 2021 Pinot Noir Justice Vineyard comes from a single block of 667 clone vines and is one of the most impressive Pinot expressions I've encountered from the 2021 vintage in the Willamette Valley so far.”
(98+ from wine advocate)
